sewdistracted

A shrink-break

This morning I wanted to take a picture of a shirt I wear pretty frequently.  The fit is ok, although it could be better, and I wear it a great deal with sweaters.  I wanted to add it to the touch closet app, and thought a photo on Matilda would be better than a flat shot.

But alas, Matilda could not fit into the shirt.; it would not reach around her upper chest or her bosom and was therefore not photographable.

This afternoon, my sewing time was spent on a depadding Matilda and fitting her into a new bra.  Not only was this necessary for photography, but if I hope to fit any kind of jacket or blouse I need Matilda to be closer to my actual measurements.  

Here she is, in process (she kindly asked for there to be no embarrassing "before" photos).  The white shirt is another version of  the purple blouse that did not fit this morning.  I included two shots because I was shocked at the first photo, as I see myself more like photo 3.  Photo 4 was taken in a pose comparable to the first photo.

All photos are clickable, as usual, if you want to see the gory details.

While I was working on this it occurred to me that I needed to take a photo for reference next time I get my hair cut because I really love the way the cut turned out this time.  This morning I really made no effort, no blow-drying, just occasional tousling with my hands as it dried, and I really like the look.  Since I had new photos it seemed like time to update my blog photos as well.  This photo is not clickable.  No one needs to see my wrinkles in all their glorious detail.

This is about how I look day to day.  I don't really have the discipline for a polished "do".  

One thing I have noticed, and my hairdresser mentioned it as well, is that my hair has gotten darker over the past few years.  Yes there is more silver and gray, mostly widely scattered strands, for which I am thankful, but that hair which is not gray has gotten darker and more uniform in color.  This of course has meant that I can wear stronger colors than I used to pull off, but it has not been dramatic enough to really change my palette.  

Here is where I need your help:  I got a little carried away with the eyeshadow this morning.  I am out of my favorite eye-tonic, the one that makes my dark circles fade, so I thought to distract the eye with a little more color on the lid whereas I often go for  the "3 shades of invisible" look.  I am torn between thinking it is nice, and thinking it is way too bright.  I like playing with color, but I can't really see what it looks like until after I have my glasses on, and then I don't notice the eyeshadow through the glasses.  The photograph brings out the color really well.  Is it good or is it too much? Opinions welcome.

New Project

Last night I traced out a new pattern.  It is a pattern I had been obsessing about all week.  It was not part of my plan.  But more about that later.

In order to make space on the cutting table I had to tackle that pile of pattern tissue and UFO's that I had been avoiding.  There were piles of pattern drafts for things made last winter (I am talking February 2008 here), and various stages of muslins and what-not for various patterns and projects I no longer remember.  

As you can see from the photo above some of them even got wet in the interval; don't ask me how that happened.

All these bits of pattern paper have been sorted; some have been filed and others are now neatly stacked and stored in the UFO pile, a pile I have every intention of finishing up.  

So why am I tracing a new pattern when I have all these unfinished patterns and muslins just waiting for my attention? Because I was looking at a piece of fabric and it said something to me.  I think it wants to be this Marfy jacket, one of the free patterns in the new 2009 Marfy catalog.  I actually don't know that it will work, and it is more than I originally wanted to tackle as I worked my way back into sewing. But the idea would just not leave my head.  All this despite the fact that there is another coat I really want to be sewing and really want to move from its position as "fabric space hog" into the coat closet.

But there is no denying inspiration.

So I traced out the pattern.    It helped that I had organized the cutting table and actually had a roll of table paper right there at the ready for tracing.  

I had hoped also to get started on the muslin yesterday, but got started a little later than planned so that didn't happen. I had intended to sort out the paperwork for our taxes, just to see what was missing so I could track it down, but once I had everything out I figured I might as well put it all together, and add everything up.  Now most of the work on the taxes is done, except for a couple of 1099s, so in the long run I am ahead.

It probably won't happen tonight either.  We are having cocktail hour before dinner tonight, which makes pattern alteration and muslin cutting a questionable enterprise.

But that is one of the advantages of retirement.  Who says happy hour has to be on Friday?  Monday is so much more decadent, don't you think?

I think this project will take me a while.  I am sure there will be days when I want simpler things, when I don't want to struggle with fitting a muslin. Even after I get the muslin fitted I have to figure out if it will work in the desired fabric (I'm not telling yet).  I wasn't planning on a tailored project and yet I am a firm believer in making what you love and this project has been on my mind.  There will be many days when I want nothing more than to tackle one of those UFOs. There is no rush after all.  

Marfy 2009

The new Marfy catalog has been in my hand about 10 days now, and it has provided many happy hours of fun and fantasy.  It has also taken the full 10 days to get my Marfy order down to "manageable" proportions.  You see, when I first get the catalog I love huge numbers of patterns, and then as I look, I realize that many are but minor variations on things I already have, or they really won't work for some reason or another.  

 

 

It takes me a few days to come down from that first flush of Marfy fever before I can look at the catalog with a clear(er) eye.  The result of this study is that I have narrowed my choices down to about 6 or perhaps 7 patterns, which really isn't bad considering that this catalog is for the entire year and I am looking at Fall patterns as well as Spring. It also doesn't hurt that I actually like most of the "free" patterns that came with the price of the catalog, and would have actually paid money for them....oh wait, I did.

 

In the end this may be the only dress in my list (you will see what I mean later on).  There were several interesting dresses with interesting details and draping (see Liana's post) but which I liked more for the abstract fact of their existence, knowing full well I would never wear the resulting creation.

 

There are also a few that appeal to a kind of wishful, "I always wished I could wear that style" kind of mentality which is like sewing quicksand.  All of those patterns were best ignored.

 

But I kept coming back to this dress.  Although a high round neckline is not my best feature, I think this one is low enough to show a bit of collar bone, and that can always be adjusted anyway.  I just like the style and the detail and I would actually wear this dress.  I am also intrigued by the cut-on sleeves and the neckline draping.  To my mind, Vogue does cut on sleeves well, but I would have trouble with them because of the neckline draping -- vogue always makes the patterns too full in the center front/upper chest area for me.  I am intrigued to see how Marfy does this.  My recollection of Marfy patterns, and it has been a few years since I actually made one, is that the fit through the upper chest is smaller and better for me.

  Liana also posted about this jacket, which I fell in love with almost the instant I saw it.  It doesn't hurt that I also have at least one piece of fabric languishing in my stash that might be perfect for this jacket.  In fact I might have two.

 

Oh dear two fabrics waiting for this pattern.  This one is definitely a must buy.  

 

I love the gathers in the front along the front band, I love that the collar does not close completely at the neck, allowing a little more of the neckline to show without being too provocative, and I love that it is feminine but also kind of sporty, at  least to my eye.

I keep on following in Liana's footsteps, at least as far as my first couple of Marfy selections are concerned because I am also seriously considering this coat, although I was on the fence about it before Liana posted and still continue to argue back and forth with myself.  I like the style, I have a fabric in mind for it, another fabric which has been waiting for just the "right pattern" and yet I still pause just a little bit.  I think I will get it though.

 

I also spent several days just looking at the blouses.  I am a sucker for blouses, and although they came back briefly I think in many ways the knit top and the fine sweater are much more a part of modern life.  And yet I can't help loving blouses.  I think I need to make a few; after I have been collecting blouse patterns for some time now, and I would certainly enjoy wearing them.

 

There were several I was looking at but in the end decided that most of them were a little bit too much for me with just a few too many frills.  

 

But I love this one.  I could probably make it from another pattern and be perfectly happy.  But I won't.  So I might a well buy it.  It is a shame that the lace inset does not continue across the back, but that wouldn't really be a hard piece to add.  

Another pattern that I knew I had to have immediately, and which is still on the list is this jacket, which was also shown on the back cover of the catalog.

 

It is the shoulder and sleeve seam that attracts me.  It seems so "me", vague as that may be, and I am also fascinated by fitting this.  It is an area that is one of my most difficult areas to fit and this approach may well offer some advantages.  

 

I am also somewhat intrigued by the dress as well.  I have other dolman dress patterns.  I might even have something I could adapt this from, but I am intrigued by how Marfy fits this.  Again, the diagonal seams also add a fitting opportunity that I might well find interesting to explore.

The dress pattern would be a good base to explore some vague design ideas that are flitting around in the back of my head.  As the price for inspiration and education, it does not seem so bad.  The dress is that questionable 7th pattern, that keeps popping in and out of my calculations.

#6 on the list (I'm not counting the second dress yet, remember) is this fabulous jeans-style jacket with its hourglass shaped seams.  There is a jacket that will give heighten the illusion of a waist, enhancing the waist that is not as trim as it once was.

Most jean-style jackets are too short, or too boxy, and this is neither, but it is not matronly either even with its longer length.  Or at least that is what I want to tell myself.   The actuality on my far different proportions may prove to be something else entirely.  But I am going to buy into the illusion and buy this pattern.  I suspect that what will really make ti work for me is to wear it with something softer on the bottom, a flirty skirt, or softer pants, as it is usually that combination of soft and strict that works best for me.  Still I see the potential.

 

But wait.

 

I have another pattern on my list.  And this is how the pattern stash grows and grows and grows.

 

 

This pattern is vying with the coat for a place on the final order.

 

I do really like this jacket, but it is not that different from jacket patterns I already have.  And admittedly part of the appeal is the pocket, which I could do myself on any other pattern. the cuff ban, and the collar, again all easily copied on another pattern.

 

But why reinvent the wheel?

 

Truthfully the original six patterns were the ones listed above.  I have decided to get the coat.  The dress with the diagonal inset piece is still on the "maybe yes / maybe no" list, but I am leaning in toward it.  G really likes it too.

 

And I had eliminated this pattern, 1988, convincing myself that I didn't need it but could use the illustration as inspiration but G really likes it a lot and thinks I should just by the pattern and save myself the trouble.  Since he found the pattern without my having to point it out to him, I am inclined to follow his advice.  But then he doesn't truly comprehend the extent of my pattern stash.  Perhaps it remains better that he never know.

 

So here is the list.  I am not yet sure whether I am sending in an order for 6 patterns or am just going to go all the way and get 8.  I don't know why I fret about it so much. When Marfy patterns were first available, I would get 8 patterns from just one season.

 

And some of them are still waiting to be made.  Not that that worries me.  I have to have the patterns available, because when I sew, it is the fabric that always starts the process.  The fabric worms its way into my attention and tells me what it wants to be.  Hopefully I have just the right pattern in my collection.

 

I will finalize my decision this week.  Now that I have narrowed the list down this far, the only thing that will keep me from adding patterns back in is to actually place the order.  I am less likely to place a second order than I am to keep inflating the original order.  I will sit on this a couple of days, but then the final decision must be made.

Trial by microfiber

I finished the alteration on the microfiber athletic pants G got for Christmas Wednesday.   

Yeah it was a bit late, and I admit that I was pretty good about finding excuses to avoid the task because it was something I really was not looking forward to. Alterations are not all that much fun anyway and this ended up being far more fiddly and painstaking than I had originally hoped.

There were two issues:

The pants were to long and the waistband was too snug.

I tackled the waistband first. The pants were constructed with a front zippered fly with a button closure and a sewn on waistband with elastic that was stitched in place.

I originally thought I could just open up the inside of the waistband seam, take out the elastic and put in a slightly bigger piece of elastic.  It was still a fair amount of work because the elastic was stitched in place.  

But the thin tight microfiber and the tiny black stitches were difficult to remove.  It took me several days to do this because my eyes would just get so tired, and it was difficult to do without cutting or tearing the fabric.  The stitches were well locked in place, I could not cut a stitch and rip, but rather had to cut each and every stitch.  Bummer.

Once I had the waistband apart I quickly realized that, although there was more than enough room in the pants themselves, the waistband was going to be too small and I needed extra length.  Luckily I also had to shorten the pants enough that I would have extra fabric to use for the waistband.  The original waistband was in one piece from front tab to front tab and the only way I could see to get a relatively unnoticeable seam would be to put a seam at one side seam and insert a new piece in one half of the side seam to the front tab.  I was quite fortunate that the width of the pant leg accommodated that fix.   

This meant that I had to spend quite a few more hours detaching the waist band completely from the pants.  After this was accomplished I cut the original waistband a bit, attached the new piece from the leg, placing the new seam at the right side seam and then reattached the waist to the pants with new elastic.  

It sounds simple enough but I found working with this fabric difficult.  It seems that my sewing skills really are a bit rusty.  And I was really hoping to ease my way slowly back into sewing.  

In the end I think I did it quite well and am in fact rather tickled with myself.  Looking at the front of the pants, I don't think you can tell that the waistband has been removed and reattached, nor do I think the seam at the right side is really noticeable.  And I am really thrilled beyond belief at how evenly I managed to do the final top stitching at the edge where the waistband meets the pants. It is such a simple thing for me to be so excited, but I am usually far too impatient with this and even if the outside looks even, the inside edge of the waistband wobbles all over the place.

As a reward to myself, last night I stitched up a little scarf from a small piece of burnout velvet that has been sitting in my stash for I don't know how many years.  Pathetic isn't it that something that took only about 10 minutes of sewing would wait for years?  No excuse to let that happen again.  If I can fix those pants that nicely I think it is about time I let myself sew for myself again.

A Nerd Let Loose in the Closet

Ever since Linda over at the Thoughtful Dresser, and Phyllis at The Sewing Divas posted about Touch Closet, I have been obsessed.  I have been trying to work out a useful way to catalog the closet and store pictures of outfits and this was perfect.  I downloaded it immediately after reading Linda's post.

Frivolous, I know, but I am such an obsessive nerd, and I tend to think of everything in outfits, even everyday things like jeans.  In my head there is this conversation that runs something like "this top goes with those jeans but not with these, but if I want to wear these jeans, which tops do I like?"  I buy fabric in outfits too, even when I buy online, I am thinking that some piece or another is perfect to go with some other mythical outfit that is floating around in my head.

So I have been spending my time photographing garments, and fiddling with Photoshop and learning to do new things, and uploading garments to my new "closet" and making outfits.  So much fun. 

Now that I have gotten started, and worked out a few details, this will hopefully not eat up so much of my time.  I have two alteration projects to finish for G and then my sewing time is mine again to use or fritter away at will.

Tilt

I finished a sweater last weekend and although my knitting has its own blog, the finishing and photographing of the sweater has sent my mind wandering down the path of fitting and style and how I want clothes to appear, or not appear.  

Hence it has wormed its way over here.

I shall show you the photo that prompted all these ruminations.  I included it in my flickr album, not because it shows the sweater to any advantage because it does not.  In fact it shows me and the sweater to disadvantage.  

You can see the problem.  It is not the sweater's fault.  The sweater is perfect.  Everything is the same length.  The weight of the cables do not pull the sweater forward.

It is Matilda.  You see she tilts forward as if she is bending forward from the hip, with her back held straight.

Oh how easy it is to blame the dressform.  But the truth is that Matilda was made from a cast of me.  And I too bend forward from the hips.

I would prefer not to be faced with this daily evidence of my own faults.  In fact, when Matilda first moved in I would walk into the room, see her, turn around and exit.  I couldn't bear it.  

Do I really tilt forward like that?  Does my left hip and butt really jut out like that, so much further than the right?  

It was not pleasant.  But Matilda has also been very helpful with some fitting issues, and many things that confounded me no end became much easier.

But I never really dealt with this tilt problem.  It is easy to ignore.  I generally avoid looking at the profile view, and take even greater pains not to see the rear-end view, excpet to make a specific check for particular flaws.  But I avoid the big picture.  And Matilda has not had legs for so long that I forgot how she stands relative to the floor.

Now I can't do that anymore.  And I can't really fix the problem with my own stance.  It is what it is, regardless of age or weight or fitness.  The simple truth is that I have scoliosis, my back is fused from T1 to L4 and I stand the way I stand.  

Matilda is a casting of me wearing flats.  I lean forward.  I suppose I need to lengthen the back of my jackets to accommodate this.    Because I lean forward I suppose that the garments hang down from my bust making me look somewhat like W.C. Fields.  I should probably deal with that too.

This photo tells me lots of things.  It explains why my back hurts when I wear flats and stand or walk all day.  To think I used to love hiking.  Perhaps hiking is not so much in my future.  This is something I have thought about.  This explains why I like to go up hill.  I am upright.  It also explains why I hate to go downhill, because I am already leaning downward and the slope makes it worse.  Too bad that I can't always go uphill.

Now, when I wear heels, the tilt is not as noticeable.  That is because I have to compensate to stand up straight. Apparently I bend my knees, which tilts my back backwards so I look more straight.  The sweater hangs properly then.  But my shoulders are back behind my butt, and my tummy sticks out beyond my bustline even though it actually doesn't.  I am beginning to see why I think fitting the back of a jacket is so important.  It adds an illusion of slimness which I at least  don't get from fitting the front.  It also explains why I get away with not looking particularly busty.

G tells me I always bend my knees.  I don't stand with straight knees ever.  Apparently I would fall over if I did.  If I am in heels I bend them more which makes my pants buckle at the knee.  This is why wider pants are more attractive than very slim pants.

If I wear heels my back does not hurt.  It is convenient that I live a suburban life dependent on cars.  Wearing heels is not so terribly inconvenient.  I occasionally think I would love to live in a city where I could walk.  This would be more problematic.  My back may prefer heels, but even at 50 I can say that my feet definitely do not.  My feet hurt when I wear heels all day.    

So there are decisions to make.  The clothes and the alterations for me in heels are not going to be the same as the clothes and alterations for me in flats.  So I have to think about how I am going to wear a garment when I make it.  I can see that perhaps what works and looks good will be different depending on the shoes, depending on the tilt.  I am not yet ready to give up heels.  Am I ready to give up caring?  Not quite.

I am not sure where I am going with this yet.  I am still thinking.  But it bears thinking about.  As for that sweater, well I have enough yarn to lengthen it, but I don't think it needs lengthening at the bottom but further up at the upper back. That will make the shape look good.  I don't think I will do it.  I can just wear this jacket with a bit of a heel for now.  That doesn't mean that I won't do it some day.  

A Fun Bit of Fluff

Your result for Are You a Jackie or a Marilyn? Or Someone Else? Mad Men-era Female Icon Quiz...

You Are an Audrey!

You are an Audrey -- "I am at peace"

Audreys are receptive, good-natured, and supportive. They seek union with others and the world around them.

How to Get Along with Me

• * If you want me to do something, how you ask is important. I especially don't like expectations or pressure
• * I like to listen and to be of service, but don't take advantage of this
• * Listen until I finish speaking, even though I meander a bit
• * Give me time to finish things and make decisions. It's OK to nudge me gently and nonjudgmentally
• * Ask me questions to help me get clear
• * Tell me when you like how I look. I'm not averse to flattery
• * Hug me, show physical affection. It opens me up to my feelings
• * I like a good discussion but not a confrontation
• * Let me know you like what I've done or said
• * Laugh with me and share in my enjoyment of life

What I Like About Being an Audrey

• * being nonjudgmental and accepting
• * caring for and being concerned about others
• * being able to relax and have a good time
• * knowing that most people enjoy my company; I'm easy to be around
• * my ability to see many different sides of an issue and to be a good mediator and facilitator
• * my heightened awareness of sensations, aesthetics, and the here and now
• * being able to go with the flow and feel one with the universe

What's Hard About Being an Audrey

• * being judged and misunderstood for being placid and/or indecisive
• * being critical of myself for lacking initiative and discipline
• * being too sensitive to criticism; taking every raised eyebrow and twitch of the mouth personally
• * being confused about what I really want
• * caring too much about what others will think of me
• * not being listened to or taken seriously

Audreys as Children Often

• * feel ignored and that their wants, opinions, and feelings are unimportant
• * tune out a lot, especially when others argue
• * are "good" children: deny anger or keep it to themselves

Audreys as Parents

• * are supportive, kind, and warm
• * are sometimes overly permissive or nondirective

Take Are You a Jackie or a Marilyn? Or Someone Else? Mad Men-era Female Icon Quiz at HelloQuizzy