I promised a recap of what has been done and what still needs to be accomplished with the front of the princess shirt.
I mentioned in yesterday's post, about the back pieces that I added a little width at the side seam over the hips, but not as much as I added to the back side seam. No additional width was needed at the front princess seam over the tummy.
However, as previously mentioned, I did need to make an FBA.
I needed to add 3/4 " in length over the bust. And I needed a bit of width as well.
Since this is princess-seamed shirt, I lengthened the center front piece by the entire 3/4 inch. And I added almost 1/2 inch at the seam over the bustline, tapering to the shoulder and waist.
On the side front piece, I angled the lengthwise addition from 3/4" at the seam with the center front and tapered to nothing at the side seam. I also added more width to the side front (7/8") than I added to the center front pattern piece at the bust so that the seams would line up correctly. If I had divided the increase evenly the seam would have fallen too far outside the bust points and this would have been matronly looking and less flattering.
I also added a tiny bit, 1/4 " at the shoulder seam, adding it in the center where the two front pieces met.
I'm sorry the photos aren't as clear as they should be, a problem with documenting things after the fact, and the ruler hides the paper that was added to provide length, but I did want to show the difference in the increases at the seam line.
As for what is next, the front is pretty much set now except for that same twisting problem that I have in the back of the shirt.
I am going to cut the shirt in half along the black horizontal line and move the upper portion to the right about 3/4" and the lower portion to the left the same amount. Then I am going to true up the seam lines and recut the pattern.
If you recall, I moved the back in a corresponding fashion. The upper portion moved left, which balances the rightward move of the front, and the lower portion moved right, just as the lower front will move left.
I know in my head that this is correct. It corresponds perfectly to the twist in my torso caused by the scoliosis. Even after corrective surgery I am not completely straight. And I know that the s-shaped curve of my spine is such that the upper spine curved to my right and the lower spine curved to my left.
I haven't done it yet, Thursdays are always very busy, but I am just amazed by the simplicity of this approach. I hope it works out as well as I think it will, although I am in fact a little nervous about posting all this before I have actually done it and sewn it up to make sure it is right. But I have faith.
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