I promised a recap of what has been done and what still needs to be accomplished with the front of the princess shirt.
I mentioned in yesterday's post, about the back pieces that I added a little width at the side seam over the hips, but not as much as I added to the back side seam. No additional width was needed at the front princess seam over the tummy.
However, as previously mentioned, I did need to make an FBA.
I needed to add 3/4 " in length over the bust. And I needed a bit of width as well.
Since this is princess-seamed shirt, I lengthened the center front piece by the entire 3/4 inch. And I added almost 1/2 inch at the seam over the bustline, tapering to the shoulder and waist.
On the side front piece, I angled the lengthwise addition from 3/4" at the seam with the center front and tapered to nothing at the side seam. I also added more width to the side front (7/8") than I added to the center front pattern piece at the bust so that the seams would line up correctly. If I had divided the increase evenly the seam would have fallen too far outside the bust points and this would have been matronly looking and less flattering.
I also added a tiny bit, 1/4 " at the shoulder seam, adding it in the center where the two front pieces met.
I'm sorry the photos aren't as clear as they should be, a problem with documenting things after the fact, and the ruler hides the paper that was added to provide length, but I did want to show the difference in the increases at the seam line.
I am going to cut the shirt in half along the black horizontal line and move the upper portion to the right about 3/4" and the lower portion to the left the same amount. Then I am going to true up the seam lines and recut the pattern.
If you recall, I moved the back in a corresponding fashion. The upper portion moved left, which balances the rightward move of the front, and the lower portion moved right, just as the lower front will move left.
I know in my head that this is correct. It corresponds perfectly to the twist in my torso caused by the scoliosis. Even after corrective surgery I am not completely straight. And I know that the s-shaped curve of my spine is such that the upper spine curved to my right and the lower spine curved to my left.
I haven't done it yet, Thursdays are always very busy, but I am just amazed by the simplicity of this approach. I hope it works out as well as I think it will, although I am in fact a little nervous about posting all this before I have actually done it and sewn it up to make sure it is right. But I have faith.